Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Dinah

From Wikipedia….
Dinah: In the Hebrew Bible, Dinah (Hebrew: דִּינָה, Modern Dina Tiberian Dînā ; "Judged; vindicated") was the daughter of Jacob, one of the patriarchs of the Israelites, and Leah, his first wife. The episode of her abduction and violation by a Canaanite prince, and the subsequent vengeance of her brothers Simeon and Levi, commonly referred to as "The Rape of Dinah", is told in Genesis 34.
The entire wikipedia article on Dinah is interesting and calls to mind issues with historical reinterpretation, even if that initial reinterpration was done in the early BC, that doesn’t make it less…interpreted:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dinah
Today, after finding that I could not get my money from Western Union again and that I am running out, Dinah came back and made me lunch without saying anything to me.  She made the same as she normally makes, vegetables (carrots, squash, onions, something green, bell peppers) in a light tomato based sauce (from whole fresh tomatoes) and she put in the sautéed cooking bananas which I love so much.  In addition, she also put in a bunch of those hot peppers since she found out that I like them.  This is such an amazing meal:
 

 
 
With the peppers it was really spicy, not too spicy, just right.  Just enough after half a bowl to make your upper lip sweat and your skin feel cooler in the wind and your nose begin to run.  Plus, the flavor of these peppers!  Magnificent!  Even if most Rwandan food is a total carb bomb.  It's mostly vegetables.
She says that all Rwandans love the peppers but they liked to sauté the peppers with onion and garlic in oil and then put the oil into a bottle and put it on everything that is cooked after its done as a hot sauce.

Also, I asked Dinah recently if she would be willing to do my laundry as she does some of the other guests.  Yes of course she says.  I told her I would be concerned that the load was too big.  She said, “For you, it can’t be too big.”  I said, as I touched her hand (and if you know me well then you know I do not seek touch with other human beings unless I am drunk or they are all Conor), “But, I don’t want to take advantage!”  She told me then something amazing, “You cannot take advantage.  First, your clothes are not that dirty.  I have been doing for 8 years.  Also, you are a friend of Hollie’s.  I will take care of you.”
I know Hollie lightly (haha!).  Hollie Go Lightly, nudge nudge, get it?  Anyway, I know her.  Dinah and Agnes have both told me that Hollie is their BEST friend.  I want to know more about this relationship that gets me, because I know Hollie, this kind of treatment.
After lunch, I picked up my room so that Dinah could mop in there.  I was sitting on the couch waiting for her to finish.  She came and sat near me and began to talk.  She said that she just found out that her younger sister was up for a good job someplace in order to make some money while she studies very hard.  She is at university with Glenn’s help, Dinah says.  There was only one opportunity and it was actually offered to Dinah but she gave it to her sister.  As she said it, “Studying is a very good thing to do.  My sister will be happy.”  I asked her if she would study.  She said no, there is maybe no more opportunity.  Dinah is 29 years old.
She says that she would like to meet a nice boy and marry him and have two children, one boy and one girl.  But, she says, the hard part is that she can’t find a nice boy and that she is a good Christian.  I asked her if she goes to church.  She does.  I asked can she find a nice boy at church.  She says that just going to church and appearing to be good does not make a nice boy.  She says, in her own words, that most people are hypocrites.  I agreed with her.  I will ask her some other time what a “nice boy” is but I think that I know.  And I will ask her later what constitutes a non-nice boy, but I also think that I know.
After this, I asked her if she planned to sell electricity because it was something she mentioned the other day.  She said she thought this was a good job.  But, she said no, she thought that she would like to own a salon.  And then she got excited and asked if she could show me something.  I was to follow her to her room which I consider kind of a big deal.  It's unspoken, but the sense is that we do not go down to their building and that it is their private space.  You call from above the stairs and then they come if they are there or they yell back or they might not be there.
She invites me in and tells me to sit on her bed (the only sitting surface available).  She takes out the cleanest and newest gym like bag I have seen in Rwanda (nothing here looks really clean and new but this looks pristine as if it too were kept in plastic).  Inside this bag there are a series of plastic bags which she pulls out.  Inside each plastic bags are other carefully tied bags.  Inside the first big plastic bag is a WHOLE bunch of totally random beauty products.  The plastic bag says on the outside Dollar Tree which I know that they do not have here.  The labels on all of the products confirm that this was the bag that they came in.  She tells me that Glenn brought this bag to her before.  There are cheap but pretty and dazzling nail polishes of different colors.  There are thousands of emery boards and other nail things.  Some hair things. 
She shows me these things and asks me to pick a color of nail polish.  I pick a glittery red.  She says that she will paint my toenails (which is good because they look sad and neglected right now with peeling and chipped silver/lavender (maybe that’s called puce?) color on them).  She agrees that red is the best of all possible colors with glitter or without.
She tells me that these are the things for the salon.  She tells me that she wants to have money to have a family but also that she hopes that later on her sister and her brother who she has helped get into education and good jobs (given away everything of hers, she says) that she will help her later when she needs it.  I ask her if she takes care of her siblings.  She says, oh yes, she loves them.  She tells me that her mother is a couple of years older than mine and in a village somewhere to the west.  That her mother is ill with TB and coughs a lot and that she sends her mother money.  Here, you can send money using cell phones which LITERALLY every single person in the country has.
She next opens the other bag.  Inside this are lot's and lot's of small boxes of all kinds and a larger kit looking bag roll up thing.  Inside of each of these is a cheap piece of jewelry, of the type of quality that I buy currently just to wear something shiny but that doesn’t last very long when the coatings come off.  Especially because I routinely fiddle with any jewelry I am wearing when I am bored or nervous which is often.
She takes and very carefully shows me from each zipper pocket and baggy and box each precious item of this jewelry.  I ask her if she wears them to church.  She says, “NO! These are to sell at the salon later!  This thing would go for THIRTY THOUSAND FRANCS HERE!”  I ask her which is her favorite one anyway.  She picks the one I would have picked.  A gold plated long necklace with white plastic “gems” or balls hanging around it.  It's very shiny and glittery.  My husband would like it too.
She asks me about each item, do you know if this is gold?  Is this “silv” (silver)?  Is this a gem?  What kind of thing is this?  I tell her, this is gold only on the top, underneath it is something harder.  She asks about my wedding ring.  I assure her it is not gold or silver but something cheaper and harder that still looks nice and can take a real beating.  I tell her that this is nice cut crystals made to look like sapphires and diamonds.  I tell her that this is definitely real silver but this is just made to look like silver.  She asks me how much things would be in the USA.  It is hard for me to answer.  I explain the cultural origins of the silver Celtic cross she has and that it is part of the culture of my people, the Irish.  She says that now this cross is her favorite.  She shows me one of the charms with that looks like a women symbol for a bathroom with a crystal made to look like someone’s birth stone that were so popular as charms and pendants about 15 years ago.  I explain about birth stones and say that these are for when you have babies.  You get the stone for the month that your baby was born and you pick the boy or girl one and then you put on a bracelet or a necklace.
Among her glittering, most secret, most private, and most valuable treasure trove, Dinah shows me a fraternity pin and asks me what it is.  I try to explain it to her and try to explain how it is worn (it has a chain between a bigger pin and a smaller).  The bigger pin has the Greek letters phi eta kappa and a skull with gems for eyes on it, I remembered it and looked it up later.  It is actually from a fraternity of the University of Maine and, as I understand it, Glenn is from Boston and went to Harvard.  Strange this gold flotsam of the west ending up in the humble room of this sweetest of Rwandan women (umugore means woman).
What do you do when a friend shows you their most precious dreams and all of these things are dollar store items from the USA?  I do not judge her, but I do judge the West all the more harshly.
Side note:  I am having some ethical discomfort with sharing this information on this blog.  I want to share this and would share it each individually with all of you.  However, this is posted on line, my personal thoughts and Dinah’s words and deeds.  I feel as though I am exploiting her whether or not I want to.  Any thoughts or advice on this?
To sum up my feelings:  look forward to making dinner for Dinah this week.
Also, when I come back next year, I want to bring an entire spa kit (massage oil and special towels and lot’s and lot's of beautiful high fashion nail polish colors and lotions, etc.).  Dinah has a side business doing this small spa services for neighbors and friends and friends of friends and their cousin’s mom’s brother’s sister’s friend.  She has offered to me the whole kit-and-kaboodle, including massage, for 6$.  I will be taking her up on this offer when I have money.  Also, I think I will try to find her size and get her some sneakers.  I think she was admiring mine.
Also, I think I will give her a pony, my first born child, and my heart.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
P.S.  Complete non sequitur, Heike and Martin are always eating.  They eat all day long.  They eat normal meals but they eat all before that and all after that.  Avocado, nuts, yogurt, Martin may drink a Primus or Mutzig (his favorite), they both drink chocolate milk every day, then a really big meal which is generally a rice and vegetable dish or beans or pasta, and then after bread, cheese, jam, Nutella, more nuts and avocado, and it just goes on.

Bunnies, and Pizza, and Peppers Oh My!


Bunny update:  So, yesterday we couldn’t find the last bunny to put them away.  Then, suddenly, someone found them behind the house.  This is a place I didn’t take pictures of because I hadn’t been back there.  It’s not that interesting but its way back behind the angles of the house where the little ditches flow between the walls of the house and the wall of the compound.  We all ran behind the house to see the babies.  They are so small and grody (sort of gross and crawly – out of curiosity, would any of you spell grody differently?).  There are four for sure but maybe five.  This creates a significantly more urgent issue with Keksy who would not have to run to catch them.

Today, the night watchman and a friend of his or something built from scratch a new bunny cage to put the mother and babies in so that the other two males aren’t with the babies.  There are big arguments about whether to leave the mother in with the babies and then feed her a lot or to let her out and then stuff her back in at night.  Any advice from anyone who knows about rabbits?

Yesterday, for lunch, I ate this:



 

Half a pineapple which I shared with Nicole and a sambusa.  A sambusa is sort of like a samosa except that the outside is more crunchy and delicious and the inside is filled with meat!  Really good salty spicy meat!  They are even good cold, which is how they are normally served.  The pineapple cost 600 francs (divided by two because we shared it), so really 300 francs for half a pineapple and 200 francs for two sambusa.  Total 500 francs or less than one dollar for a very filling and very delicious and hydrating lunch.

Last night, I went OUT!  I was going completely stir crazy.  Maybe I will be able to start work this week.  A few more conversations and permissions to get until the answer is a definite yes.  Still waiting around.  So, I asked around and I was told by everyone who has been here for a while that the very first place I should go out to is a restaurant called Sol e Luna.  If you have forgotten you can, remember to check out the Rwanda map I shared in an earlier post as I am adding things all the time. 

Sol e Luna is an Italian restaurant where the only food you should order is pizza.  First, you go through the gate at the top of the hill.  Then you walk down a million stone steps in the dark.  Then you walk into the open air restaurant.  I know, I know, I forgot to bring a camera.  It’s because I am using the local phone and not my iphone.  I promise to always bring both phones from now on.  But, you should know, I cannot just be taking photos on the street for two important reasons:  first, there are always so many people on the street.  Taking a picture of a street market means taking 20 people’s photo as well.  They wouldn’t like it.  Second, if you hold an iphone up to take a photo out and away from your body the temptation, I have heard, is often enough to make someone just snatch it and run.  It's too much risk.

Anyway, Sol e Luna is absolutely beautiful.  It sits on the side of the hill with a view of the other side of Kigali, not the downtown area but the more residential area, and at night you can see a million energy saving lightbulbs twinkling.  They are a true white and not a yellow like American lights.  They are beautiful.  The country is lit up like Christmas every night.  The air was cool.

I sat down and ordered a large Primus.  I was sweating a lot from the walk and the stairs and general nerves of being alone and out at night (7pm) in Kigali.  The walk is about thirty minutes at a Rwandan, not a muzungu, pace and it’s all uphill so it makes you sweat (err, makes me sweat anyway, I have yet to see a Rwandan sweat.

The music playing in the background was light jazz guitar and the entire place was made of really high quality dark mahogany wood.  Very beautiful.  It looks very, very upscale.  The sort of place that I cannot afford in the USA right now.  They have a full bar with every alcohol you could want.  I enjoyed my beer and the ambience as I looked over the menu.  There are actually 89 different kinds of pizza.  I ordered number 055: Salami.  It had very thin slices of salami, goat cheese that wasn’t creamy but melty like mozzarella but with a stronger flavor, tomato sauce, but a paste like thin layer like in Rome, and fresh garlic and oil topped with black olives on top of a chargrilled thin crust.  It was heavenly!  It was about as good as the pizzas I had in Rome.  The Primus was 1,100 francs and the pizza was 4,900 francs.  So, running total was 6,000 francs which is about 9 dollars or so.  Across the way I saw three muzungu all speaking Italian.  I introduced myself.  The two men were from Italy and don’t speak English terribly well but do speak English.  One of them asked me if I was ok because I seemed red or nervous.  I said it was nerves because I am still so new.  He said, “No no, no nerves.  Rwandan customs takes them when you arrive!”  LOL.

The woman spoke English very well and it turns out that she was half Italian and half Australian.  She is older.  They have all been here for a long time.  They were welcoming.  The woman’s name was Alexandra.  They all agreed that this pizza was the best in the world outside of Italy.

So, why do all muzungu go to Sol e Luna apart from the ambience?  Because every Monday night is expat quiz night!  Arrive early, 7pm, to find a table and order early because the service will get really slow later.  Then, find your team and eat and drink.  Then answer a whole bunch of questions presented by some team while getting really tipsy.  Then, win or lose, meet new people and hear all the gossip in the expat scene which is small and gossipy.  Then go home early-ish (9-10pm).

Alexandra asked me if, if it turns out there was room on her team, if I would like to play with her?  Yes, I say.  The limit for team size is seven players.  If you want to read another hilarious description of this event, please go to the Living in Kigali blog here:


Before the quiz and after I had eaten my fill of delicious pizza, Alexandra advised me that I should have espresso if I was feeling sleepy because of jet lag still as happens to everyone here.  I was and so I ordered an espresso.  It was 1,500 francs.  So, running total now is 7,500 francs or 11-12 dollars.  The espresso was OUT OF THIS WORLD GREAT!  They agreed also, this is perhaps the best espresso in the world, including Italy!  I slurped it down with glee.

Feeling more awake and giddy, we removed to the bigger dining hall with the great overlook and found her friends at the table.  There were three Americans, one half Italian half Australian and two I have no idea.  I mean it, both in terms of ethnicity and language I have no idea what they said their names were and where they were from.  It was pretty cool actually.  They all felt really cool actually.  Cooler than me anyway.  They had traveled to so many places and had all been living in Rwanda for years.

So we played the game.  Questions consisted of the following as examples:

What is the capital of Togo?  Didn’t know this one and can’t remember the answer.

What kind of animal is a horny toad?  Lizard

What is a titmouse?  Bird

How many gold medals did Great Britain get in the last Olympics?  Didn’t know but the answer was 29

In what country were two teenagers recently sent to jail for kissing in a photo on facebook?  Didn’t know but the answer was Morocco.

Who published the new album “Letters from Exile” after being jailed for three months recently?  Didn’t know but the answer was Lauren Hill

What is the best country for old people?  Argentina

On the map of the London underground, which line is pink?  No idea at all.  Don’t remember the answer either.

How long was the hundred years war?  116 years

What creature is responsible for 41 deaths this years and thousands of others in the past in northern china?  Didn’t know but the answer was hornets.

Who was the author of the sci fi novel Life of Pi?  Some other teammate knew.

And lot's and lot's more like this.

Even though it seems like we didn’t know much, actually I just can’t remember most of the questions that we knew the answers to.  So, who won?  We were tied for first place!  Us, our team name was “Big Primus not Small” and some other team, I think it was called Muzungu Power and had the most Rwandans on it, ironically, had to get up for a tie breaker question.  Now here is the really funny part.  The thing is, you don’t actually want to win first place.  First place gets anything they ordered up to the end of the game for free.  But they have to run the quiz the next week and don’t get to participate.  Second place, on the other hand, gets any drink they ordered up to the end of the game for free.  The food isn’t free, but they don’t have to work for the next week and get to play again.

So, now you will understand that when our team was asked who accompanied Madonna to the 1991 Oscars that one of us shouted as quickly as possible, “Albert Einstein” and the other team ended up winning.  Thus, we very happy won second place.  So, by this time I have had one more large Primus and another small one.  But it doesn’t matter, because all I had to pay for was the pizza.  Large night out where I made 8 friends and a very swanky restaurant with the best libations and alimentations ever – 4,900 plus a ten percent tip which is customary only at nice places with good service.

At the end, Alexandra asked me for my phone number.  As it happens, this was the last quiz night for her.  She is leaving on Sunday for a holiday all over, safari here, spa time there.  She will be back at the beginning of December.  Why did we exchange numbers?  She would like, if I can, for me to join her at her house on Friday for her going away party and she would like to contact me again when she returns at the beginning of December.  Friend!  Also, another American, Nathan, exchanged numbers with me and said that he would maybe like to be on my team again.

After my description of this time, Heike and Martin and Archie and Nicole all say that they would like to join me next week.  But, that is already 5 people on the team.  I don’t know if we will be able to join forces with the other people I met.

The best part is that I was feeling so absolutely stir crazy from being in the house and waiting for permission to have a schedule that keeps me busy all day.  And this night made things much better, at least for a few days.

I walked home, which was downhill all the way in the cool night air.  I was feeling very satisfied.  I ate the rest of my pizza when I got back and talked to my husband.  All in all, it was a good day.

Today, we went to the market to try to find mangos and papayas which sounded good to Heike and Nicole and me.  Dinah escorted us.  It is near the place where I got my phone.  It turned out that the market didn’t have any papaya and the mangos were under ripe and everything else was more expensive than another market the Dinah knows and will bring us to tomorrow or something.  Nicole and I went in on a kilo of mangos anyway, it's three large mangos, which was, I think 1,500 francs or 2.25 dollars.  So, kind of pricey but they smell delicious already.  I bought one and she bought the other two. 

I also bought five small scary looking hot peppers.  This week I would like to make Spanish rice and beans to share with Dinah.  I think she has had all of the spices before but not in this specific combination and it is easy to do with what is available here.  The peppers are scary and look like slightly washed out habaneros but she says that they are no very, very hot.  She says they are medium hot.  We will see!  Below you can see what is in my personal cupboard in my room so far:



The five peppers, two unripe avocados, one unripe mango, a large thing of salt, some bananas, and grand nuts and my extra water bottle.  It isn’t full and in a refrigerator right now because the water is off.

 

In other news, my money was supposed to come in today and so I went to a Western Union outlet.  They said they had no connection.  I went to another, they went through an entire process and then told me that there was no progress.  I have no idea what this meant.  The language barrier was really hard and the man spoke so softly I was almost leaning over the counter into his face to ask him.  And this seemed especially rude because it is REALLY hot today.  When you are walking it's no problem because the wind is blowing on you.  But the second you walk out of the wind, the sweat just POURS off.  So I am pouring sweat almost on this quiet man.  Anyway, he said to try again tomorrow.  Another day without much money left.  Still should be OK for another two to three days.

Last thing, a random thought:  most of the advertisements here do not have people in them, just words.  But the ones that have people in them are all tan colored, very light even if not muzungu.  But the very vast majority of the people I see on the street are very dark skinned.  History of colonialism and the end result of putting the West up on a pedestal make me ill.  What makes me more ill is the logical deduction of this.  If they think more highly of people who do not look like them, then they think less highly of themselves.  Don’t think so?  Don’t know much about Brown vs. Board of Education? Then please, by all means, watch this and watch the WHOLE THING:

Monday, October 7, 2013

Bunny Alert!

OMG one of the white bunnies was pregnant and has just given birth!  There will be more updates on the bunnies tomorrow.

BUNNIES!

Sunday, October 6, 2013

Driving While Mizungu


After all the hub-bub with the dog on Saturday, I went to take a shower and decided to use the one in the building I am living in, the one that is just a cold water faucet.  It was really hot so I thought I wouldn’t mind the colder water.  I washed my hair and noticed that it was difficult to get the soap out for some reason.  Then I wash my arms and armpits.  When I went to rinse them I noticed that the water from the faucet was less a delightfully cold and refreshing deluge and more a luke-warm stream which was quickly becoming a tepid trickle.  By the time I finished rinsing it was only drip-drip.  The water had turned off.  Murakoze cyane Rwanda!  (Thank you very much Rwanda!)

At least I was able to wash my hair!  But I couldn’t brush my teeth or wash my lower half or shave or anything.  Oh well.  I got dressed.  I dressed nicely because Damas was meant to take me to see his parents’ house and then a dinner at his house.  I wore capris and a nice shirt recently given to me by my mother-in-law and my orange resin and gold jewelry set and put on mild-level make-up.  I put on perfume.  I wore my plaid loafers thinking we might walk just a bit but not too much so I didn’t want to wear nice shoes or my walking shoes.

Damas arrived on time at four and I got in the car.  He drove me outside the city, maybe half an hour or so, in his car.  His car is HUGE.  It’s really, really big.  It’s a Toyota and a model that is not made in the USA and I have never seen before.  But really tall and four wheel drive standard transmission.  I feel like we are about to hit everyone on the road.  It is an unusual car for Rwanda because it is so big and so nice.  People like to look at it and try to look inside of it because they know it must be someone rich or important.  This is a car that Damas has because he works for a good position in the government.

Some things about driving in Rwanda.  People are EVERYWHERE.  There are lot’s of people out on the street at all times of the day and into the night.  There are motos (motorcycle taxis) everywhere and they are in the way and completely crazy and dangerous.  They cut in front.  They ride beside.  They pull out in front of you.  They do not signal at all.  I asked Damas what he thought of the motos, he said, “I HATE them, HATE them.”  I think I hate them, too.  I cannot imagine a future me or a situation in which I would choose to get on one.  I will not get on one.  It’s just too scary and dangerous.

The cars here and the people do not obey any rules of the road.  They are all over the place and driving on the wrong side and do not use signals.  In order to communicate they use a complex language of what can only be described as Morse code with their high beams.  I don’t understand it.  Suffice to say, I did not like being in a car at all.  I would rather walk everywhere.  The buses seem more safe because they drive more slowly and seem to obey more rules.  So, buses might be an option in the future.  For now, I would rather keep my feet on solid ground.

So another thing about the roads in Rwanda.  All of the paved roads and most of the dirt roads in the city have VERY deep and large gutters on one or both sides of the street.  There are NO curbs.  You could just drop your wheels right into them.  It’s so terrifying to me to be driving like that:  moto, people, other cars, in a big car driving fast, no one obeying rules, and the constant possibility that you might fall off on the passenger side.  I hate it.  It’s the most challenging thing I have done since I got here.  Damas asked me often, “What, are you scared?  Why?!”  As if by asking he could suddenly convince me of the absurdity of being afraid.  How do I tell him that, even though I would be afraid anyway, many mizungu would find driving in Kigali harrowing?

Side bar:  the other day, I overheard a person say, “Rwandans are naturally obedient.”  This was in a political context and meant to say something about the history of more authoritarian forms of government, in particular the prior monarchy.  I immediately felt my stomach turn over.  No one is “naturally” obedient.  In fact, I think this statement is nonsensical.  But, if it were true, then the Hutus would not have revolted against Tutsi rule and the country as a whole would not have sought independence.  And besides all that and the general silliness of such a statement, Rwandans would obey the laws of the land with regard to driving and walking and the road if they were “naturally” obedient.  Sociology teaches us to ALWAYS be suspicious when you hear the world “natural”.

On this topic, in the last few days I have heard all kinds of weird generalizations about Rwandans both from mizungu and Rwandans:

1.     Rwandans are lazy

2.     Rwandans are cheaters

3.     Rwandans like to steal

4.     Rwandans are the most curious and nosey people.  It’s not polite.

5.     Rwandans don’t know anything.

6.     Rwandans only care about their particular career and will cheat you to get ahead.

7.     Rwandans are conservative.

The list goes on but these are the more ugly ones.  For the record, Rwandans don’t seem any different than any other people in the world in terms of human nature.  Both to me, personally, from my short experience of the past week and according to this list.  This list could also look like:

1.     Americans are lazy

2.     Americans are cheaters

3.     Americans like to steal

4.     Americans are the most curious and nosey people.  Its not polite.

5.     Americans don’t know anything

6.     Americans only care about their particular career and will cheat you to get ahead.

7.     Americans are conservative.

 

So, we are driving, up and up and up and away from Kigali.  Things are getting more and more rural.  Then he pulls over on this road on a vista of the city and says he wants to show me a good view.  We stop next to an open field that works as a vista on top of a hill with a view of Kigali.  There are about 7 children playing in the field.  The moment this giant expensive car door opens a mizungu, me, steps out.  All of the children SPRINT in my direction and surround me.  All say something, muraho!  Or bonjour!  I say Haalloo!  We walk toward the vista and are looking around and the children are standing behind me chattering.  It was hard to listen to Damas because of this.  It’s like being one part freak and one part celebrity.  I notice inside myself the strong desire to say to these children, “There is nothing special about looking like I do except that I sunburn easily, I am inclined to asthma, I am more susceptible to malaria and less susceptible to many fevers and flus, and I am more inclined to be fat.  I am nothing and everything just like you are nothing and everything.”  But, I don’t yet know Kinyarwandan.

We go back to the car and he says that he wants to show me his land on the other side.  I put my purse in the glove compartment which locks and only when the car is on.  Then he locks the car and sets the alarm.  There are a lot of men walking on the road.  We cross the road and start down a path.  There are goats.  Little goats running around and then two baby goats.  They were so unbelievably cute.  They were playing and braying and running around us.  I was delighted.  And before you can ask, no I didn’t have my camera on this trip because I didn’t know we were going there.

We went back to the car.

We started to drive and then drove and drove.  Unfortunately, these back roads are just as dangerous as the city roads but for a different reason.  On the one side is the incline of the hill, you would fall off.  In the middle of the road are these unbelievably deep grooves going this way and that from erosion from the rain which is such a deluge.  This is why Damas likes his big car.  So he can go up and down and around all these things.  The strange thing is that he has a penchant for driving on the left side of the unmarked dirt roads and, from my point of view, seems to like to swerve suddenly to the left if there are people walking on the left and swerve suddenly to the right if there are people walking on the right so that people often get wide-eyed.  Maybe that is why people always want to know who is in the car he drives.  Because it looks like this big expensive car with the tinted windows is trying to hit them.

Side note:  in the countryside, Katie, the Peacecorp worker, says that the mizungu workers use the terms tatertots and hashbrowns to refer to Tutsi and Hutu.  I think that is hilarious.  You are not allowed really to talk about ethnicity in anything but an abstract way here because people don’t want to identify and it’s the rudest thing you can think of.

So, we saw his land and his family land the people who work it.  There are many, many plants in the countryside that try to stick you.  You can imagine, after a lot of walking over this land, I was really regretting what I picked to wear and have decided to definitely ask, DEMAND, Damas tell me PRECISELY what we will be doing next time I hang out with him.

Today, Agnes took me to the local market to buy a chapatti which I ate for lunch with tomatoes and avocados and salt and a little container of grand nuts, which are like peanuts only a bit lighter as if they have less fat.  Agnes used to work here but recently got a job somewhere else and now just lives here.  On the walk, she held my hand.  People hold hands here while walking, I’ve seen it.  I have seen men holding hands with each other and touching each other a lot and women.  And Agnes was holding my hand in a natural way.  I have to say that as mizungu people want to touch me generally.  They touch a lot anyway, but they look for excuses to touch me and in particular to touch my hair.
Today, I am drinking the local Rwandan beer Primus.  It is cheaper and is totally Rwanda.  The “better” beer which is more German and sweeter is from a company that was historically German and is called Mutzig.  I like that too, but it is sweeter and more expensive so less my cup of...err…mug of beer.

 
Also, I recently found out that Glenn, the 70 year old Bostonian who owns this guest house, likes to bring lot's of nail polish for Agnes and Dinah who then invite their friends and others over to paint their toenails.  It’s their little side business.  I think I might take advantage of their business acumen because the polish I have seen that they have is actually really pretty.

One more thing, my lips keep being chapped.  I thought I wasn’t drinking enough water.  But, in truth, on days when it isn’t raining, the humidity is 40%!  It’s so low!  I am so parched!

Saturday, October 5, 2013

Viva La Bunnies!


Update!  The last few days Heike has been making a collar out of twine through this knotting mechanism that I think would make a really good rug if it were bigger.  She said that she learned this as a young girl in Germany.  Today she finished the collar, as it is the weekend and there is a lot more time.  And today I made a rope and learned how to tie a bowline.  Weird.  So, after much design, redesign, discussion and an overall bonding experience between Heike and Martin and Keksy and between me and Heike and Martin, there is finally a long enough leash and a collar.  We have just put the collar on Keksy and let out the bunnies for the first time in two days.  They seem pretty stiff.

Keksy seems a bit stressed by the experience but is so far just lying down and ok.  Dinah is very happy.

Two random things:

First, yesterday, I told you I ran errands.  It was relevant at the time to say that it was raining lightly and very cloudy and that we were using umbrellas.  Later that evening it became relevant as I realized that I had a sunburn on the parts of my skin that were exposed of clothing.  That is just plain crazy.  Have to be really careful about the sun at the equator!  Really, really careful!

Second, another thing you should know about the place that I am living at.  I have told you the names of all the people who are living here.  But there is a night watchman whose name I don’t know and who coughs every night a lot around 2am or so.  There are also other people coming and going all day long.  People’s moms, or friends, or people’s mom’s friends, or people’s mom’s half cousin’s dog’s friends.  And they are either taking something (like bandwidth) or giving something.  Peoples mom’s always bring things to people here.  Usually like food.  Some people take their bucket baths here and others just stop in to say hi and sit on a porch and chat for a while.

Everyone should spend a holiday in Rwanda, I think, so far.  When the wind blows through the banana leaves it makes the most relaxing sound.  Most times of the day, including into the night, there is beautiful traditional singing to be heard from one direction or another.  And the frequent rain makes everyone sleepy hitting the tin roof.  If I go on about the singing forgive me because it is just so beautiful to me.  The polyphonic melodies make me go all quixotic and if not then simply wistful.

Besides, spending a holiday in Rwanda would be cheap in money and priceless in world experience.  Familiarity breeds small-mindedness. 

So, to broaden your horizons, and, as promised, photos, if I can fit them all here.  If you click on the photo you can see the bigger version:

The sitting room in the building I live in.
 
The weird middle room with the refrigerator leading to the back door.

 
The bathroom showing toilet, bucket used to fill toilet with water to "flush" it, and faux shower.

 
View from the back porch of the building where Dinah and Agnes live.
 
 
Back porch.
 
 
So pretty!

 
OMG They are so ORANGE!


The gate to the compound from the inside.

 
The front porch.

 
The front drive leading to the courtyard.



I want this plant to be my friend.

 
Seriously.

 
These are the avocados on the avocado tree.  There are hundreds of them.  But they won't be ready to eat until December or January Dinah says.

 
What are those little balls?

 
Martin with Keksy.

 
The sitting room in the building that Martin and Heike and the others live in.
 
 
This is my new friend.  I have named her "Umuntu" or "person" in Kinyarwandan.


The patio in the courtyard where we all eat and congregate all day if we are here but particularly in the evenings.  Also the place where Keksy lives.

 
One of the many, many compost heaps that surround the base of most of the plants.

 
The kitchen.  There is a switch to turn on the water in the other building to use the sink.

 
A free bunny!

 
So pink!  I want a shirt that looks like this.  Or a big silly hat that would have been popular in the 1940s high fashion.

 
The platform in the garden behind the big building.
 

These plants look so angry.  I like them.

 
Bananas at the top of a tree at the top of the platform.  I want to see that flower open!


One view from the platform.  Look at that humidity haze!  It hasn't rained yet today but it will soon.


Another view from the platform.  If you look at the larger picture you can see people working in the fields.


Yet another view but this one focusing more on houses.


Detail view of one of the houses next door.



Weird tree beans that are not meant to be eaten but yet were pushed upon Katie, the Peacecorp worker, when she was ill by a 5 year old who said they had healing powers.

 
A zebra themed cup I found and like.


How are these flowers constructed?

 
Really, what the hell is that thing on the tree?


The poster child for tropical flowers.

 
How they climb the avocado tree when they are ripe to get them ALL!

 
Heike with Keksy.


Me with Dinah!